The light that never dies. A journey through the spring hills.
Every morning, Vicențiu Moga set out from Iași, his camera slung across his chest like an old talisman, a second heart beating in rhythm with his footsteps on the red-clay roads of the Moldavian hills. To him, the spring album was more than a mere collection of images: it was a confession, a visual liturgy he had carried in his soul for years—though he kept postponing it, for he understood, with the painful clarity of the true photographer, that spring does not give itself up easily. It yields only to those who know how to wait.
He had risen before dawn, when the sky above Iași still held that indecisive hue—neither night nor day—a faded blue-grey velvet in which the stars were extinguishing one by one, like vigil candles at the end of a wake. He had packed his satchel with a volume of Nichita Stănescu’s poetry—an old edition, its spine frayed and its page edges yellowed by many fingers—along with a few pieces of bread and a thermos of tea. He never forgot the tea. It was a habit inherited from his father, a quiet man who believed the world looked different when viewed over a steaming cup.
The evening before, he had read: “Of course, spring has burst from my temples,” and that line had not released him all night long.
He knew the road to Repedea Hill with every bend and pothole. Over the years, he had photographed these places in every season, but spring was different. In spring, the hills around Iași took on an almost unreal transparency, as if the light came not from the sky but from within the earth itself, from a slow, gentle fire smouldering beneath the roots of grass and trees. In his journal, Vicențiu called this light from below, and he sought it with the same patience and emotion with which a pilgrim seeks a miracle-working icon.
The Fathers of the Philokalia wrote that pure prayer is that which springs from the heart without effort, like a spring that does not know it is springing. Vicențiu believed that true photography worked the same way—not as a violent capture of the world, but as a reception. You let the light enter you, and only then, in the moment when heart and eye align in silence, do you press the button. You do not take the photograph. You are photographed by what you love.
The hill arched before him in the morning light with the lazy grace of a body still half-asleep. The plum trees on the slope had bloomed early—a warmer year had pushed them into the light a full two weeks ahead of schedule—and now they stood there, white and faintly pink, like brides who do not know they are beautiful. Vicențiu stopped. He took out his camera. He did not photograph.
He waited.
He knew the right moment never came when you called it. It came on its own, unexpectedly, like a good thought amid worries, like a sunbeam through a cloud. His father, who had been a blacksmith, not a photographer, had once told him that even iron must be ready before you strike it. “Strike the iron when it is hot, not when you want it to be hot.”
By eight in the morning, he was already on the plateau above Valea Adâncă—a place the people of Iași know but always pass by, hurried towards more famous destinations. It was a modest plateau, with no pretensions to grandeur: short grass, a few clumps of broom flowering in violent yellow, and a view that, on clear days, took in a good stretch of the Moldavian plain. Vicențiu loved it precisely for its modesty, for he had long understood that true beauty does not shout, does not show off, but allows itself to be discovered with patience and humility.
He opened the volume of Stănescu: “It is the first time I am left without life, bound by spring with cords, until the scents strike my face, waking me—I inhale them, I caress them.”
What did Nichita know, Vicențiu wondered, what did he know of this sweet, repeated death that one experiences every spring, when you feel that the world’s beauty is too vast for your body, and that you must die a little in order to receive it! The Philokalia spoke of death to the self as a necessary threshold of prayer; perhaps photography, too, required such a death—to die to one’s own will, to one’s own plan, to the idea one had before setting out, and to let oneself be guided by what one finds.
He raised his camera. In the viewfinder: the broom bush, the wind moving its branches with that slight tremor that turned the golden flowers into something alive, almost breathing. A heavy, sleepy bumblebee settled on a branch and stayed there, as only bumblebees know how—with a bourgeois dignity and satisfaction. Vicențiu smiled. This is photography, he thought. The bumblebee who does not know he is beautiful.
The shutter released its discreet, almost apologetic click.
By midday, he descended towards Valea Lupului, walking along a cobblestone road that the trees covered like a cathedral vault. Spring had entered beneath this vault timidly, like a child in a great church—the young leaves, just emerged from their buds, bore that yellow-green hue that lasted only a few days, and which Vicențiu considered the most precious colour in the world, more valuable than a goldsmith’s gold, for it could not be bought and could only be preserved in a photograph.
This, after all, was the miracle of photography: that it made the ephemeral immortal. It did not petrify the great and stable things—stones and mountains and seas existed without photography—but it saved what would otherwise perish: a three-day green, a bumblebee on a branch, the expression of an old man gazing at a field and thinking thoughts he would never voice.
He stopped at the edge of the road where a streamlet ran through a concrete pipe buried beneath the old asphalt. On its bank, someone had long ago planted a few wild roses, which, untended for years, had grown into a delicate thicket from which the first buds now emerged, a fierce, burning red, aggressively alive against the pale green around them. Vicențiu knelt in the mud—his work clothes always bore the marks of these involuntary genuflections—and photographed the roses from ground level, with the bleached midday sky above them.
“And I die a second time, when the blade of rays hanging from the branches cuts my face.”
Yes, Nichita knew. Light that cuts—not to wound, but to reveal. Spring light lacked the gentleness of summer light or the melancholy of autumn light; it cut through things with the ruthlessness of youth, revealing all, hiding nothing. Vicențiu, who had photographed people for many years before turning to nature, knew that spring light was the most merciless to human faces—it showed the wrinkles, the fatigue, all the marks life left on the skin. And yet, that same light made flowers burn, made them pulse, made them more real than the real.
In the afternoon, he reached Vorovești—a small village perched on a hill in that particular way Moldavian villages have of perching on hills, with a nonchalance towards their own beauty. The house where he stopped belonged to no one in particular, or to everyone—one of those abandoned houses that time slowly transforms into something else, into shapes architecture had never envisaged. Through its windowless frames now grew a lilac bush that had taken over the front room entirely, its branches reaching out like arms seeking the light.
The lilac had not yet flowered, but the buds were ready, swollen with the promise of their violent fragrance. Vicențiu stood for a long time before this scene—a house that a plant had consumed from within, and which, through this devouring, had become more alive than it had ever been when people lived there.
He thought of Saint John Climacus, who wrote that humility is the root of all virtues, that true height comes from descending. That house had descended into its own ruin, and now it was tall, filled with lilac and with light entering unobstructed through all its openings. It had descended, and through this descent had finally become a place where something could grow.
He photographed the house with the lilac with the soulful slowness that always came over him in the presence of great things. He knew this would be the central image of the album. He did not yet know why, but he knew this knowledge without arguments, at the level of the chest, where the true photographer knows his photographs before he takes them.
The sun was descending towards the western hills when Vicențiu climbed the last hill of the day, the one above Păcurari—a place from which all of Iași could be seen, from the towers of the Palace of Culture to the antennas and the blocks of the new districts that ceaselessly spread towards the edges of the old city. He often came here at dusk because the horizontal light of sunset made the Iași hills appear sculpted, bringing into relief every curve, every slope, every small valley that the map ignored but the feet knew.
He opened the volume again. The final stanzas of Nichita’s poem: “O, spring raises red flames. On their pyre my soul is stretched, until the scents strike my face, and I wake, and I conquer and am conquered.”
“I conquer and am conquered.” The photographer, like the poet, always lived in this dual state: he conquers when he finds the image, yet is conquered by the beauty that exceeds any image. He wins the moment, loses eternity. He wins eternity in the moment. It was a paradox Vicențiu had long since stopped trying to unravel, content to live inside it like a house with no clear shape but in which one feels at home.
The setting sun’s light transformed Iași before his eyes—it aged it, it kindled it, it turned it into that storybook city perhaps seen by Moldavian boyars from similar hills centuries ago, when carriages rumbled along unpaved streets and spring arrived just the same, surprising people with the same early roses and the same impatient lilac.
Vicențiu raised his camera one last time. Iași in the flames of sunset. Hills arching into one another like the waves of a sea of stone and earth and grass. A flowering cherry tree in the foreground, so white it seemed unreal, an explosion of light that was not the sun but something else, something coming from within the tree itself.
Click.
In the evening, in his small studio on Golia Street, with windows open to the courtyard where a neighbour had left a washing machine under the open sky, Vicențiu copied the day’s photographs onto his computer and examined them one by one with the slow, devoted attention others give to evening prayer. For him, it was all prayer—a journey through everything he had seen that day, a second living of them, slower and more meditative.
The bumblebee on the broom bush. The wild roses at ground level. The house with lilac in Vorovești. The cherry tree at sunset.
And among them, dozens of smaller, more obscure images that might never make it into the album but had been necessary, for every photograph you take prepares you for the photograph you do not yet know you will take.
The spring album was taking shape in his mind not as a collection of beautiful images—there were plenty of those, shot with better equipment and more refined techniques—but as a testimony to this repeated death and rebirth that Nichita had named with poetic precision and the Holy Fathers with spiritual precision, and which he, Vicențiu Moga, photographer from a magnificent provincial Iași, experienced every morning when he set out onto the Moldavian hills with his camera at his chest and his heart open.
Spring was not photographed. Spring received you, undid you, remade you. And if you were attentive enough, if you had died enough times to your own expectations, if you had knelt in the mud enough mornings—then, sometimes, it would gift you an image.
And that image is not yours. It has been given to you as a gift. And you keep it, with care and gratitude, like a letter from someone you love who lives far away.
The post-sunset silence had settled over Iași when Vicențiu closed his computer. Somewhere, in the neighbouring courtyard, an early cricket—the only cricket of spring, the one who does not know it is too early—had begun to sing.
Author’s Note
On the Genesis of a Narrative and Its Honest Limits
I. The Initiating Idea—A Confession of Debt
This narrative would not have been born without a conversation I had with Florin Sfichi, a photographer and a man with a rare sense of place—one of those uncommon people who can speak about light without depleting it through words. Florin once told me—and I have kept that phrase like a kind of key—that landscape photography is not about the landscape, but about the inner state of the person gazing at it. That the hills of Moldavia are not a subject, but an interlocutor. That the camera does not capture the world, but the dialogue between person and world.
From this initiating idea sprang everything you have read. Vicențiu Moga is not Florin Sfichi—he is a fictional, composite character, built from fragments of people I have known—but the spine of his being, what makes him walk and look and wait patiently on the hills, comes from an intuition Florin gave me. I owe him this public acknowledgment, for to take an idea without acknowledging its source is a subtle form of disrespect that literature should not permit itself.
The idea that the true photographer does not photograph but receives is a free paraphrase of something Florin Sfichi articulates in his visual practice with far greater coherence than I have managed in prose. If this narrative has a true core, it belongs to him. If it has limits, they are mine.
II. The Limits—With Honesty and Without Excuses
a) The geographical limit. The hills described—Repedea, Valea Adâncă, Vorovești, Păcurari—are real places around Iași, but their depiction in the text is partly idealised. I have not, in reality, traversed the entire route described in a single spring day exactly as in the narrative. There is a temporal compression and an aesthetic selection that serve the fiction but may disorient readers familiar with these places, who know that the distances and character differ slightly from how they appear in the text. Vorovești, for instance, has a harsher, less idyllic atmosphere than the one I constructed.
b) The literary limit. I invoked the style of Simona Antonescu’s The Photographer of the Royal Court as a declared reference, which creates an expectation I am not sure I fully meet. Simona Antonescu’s prose possesses a historical precision and a richness of material detail—the texture of a dress, the exact sound of a carriage on a particular street, the specific colour of wallpaper from a certain era—which this narrative cannot replicate, as it is set in the present day and its narrative voice has different concerns. I borrowed the tone and rhythm, not the historical reconstruction. It is an influence, not an imitation, and it would be insincere to claim otherwise.
c) The theological limit. The references to the Philokalia and the Holy Fathers are used in the text with the freedom of a lay writer, not the rigour of a theologian. The parallel between pure prayer and the photographic act is, I hope, a beautiful literary metaphor—but it is not a serious theological statement. A reader with solid patristic training will notice that this parallel forces analogies the Orthodox tradition would not endorse without reservation. I used these references with respect, but also with the awareness that I was using them from the outside.
d) The major subjective limit. Vicențiu Moga is an idealised character—the contemplative photographer, patient, egoless, always in a state of reception. Real photographers, even the best ones I know, alternate this state of grace with frustration, fatigue, self-doubt, and moments when the camera seems a useless, inert object. I chose to build a character from his maximum light, not from his everyday shadow. This is a legitimate artistic choice, but it must be named: it is an idealisation, not a portrait.
III. Internal Tensions—What Rubs Within the Text
The tension between contemplation and production. Vicențiu wants to make an album—that is, a cultural product intended for an audience, marketable, exhibitable. And yet the narrative’s rhetoric consistently places him in the register of the pure contemplative, the one who receives without pursuing a goal. This contradiction—the contemplative with a deadline, an editor, an album concept—is not resolved in the text. It exists in the real life of every artist, and I left it there, in the background, because artificially resolving it would have falsified something true.
The tension between the individual and the traditional. The references to the Philokalia and the Holy Fathers push the narrative towards a theology of the person, of humility, of reception. But Nichita Stănescu’s poetics is a poetics of the romantic, expansive self, which dies and is reborn like a personal sun. The two traditions do not harmonise easily. I placed them in the same narrative precisely because I feel both to be true, and because this tension seems to me more sincere than a comfortable choice between them.
IV. Subjective Errors Assumed
1. I romanticised rural poverty. In the text, the house with lilac in Vorovești is a place of meditative beauty. In reality, an abandoned house on a Moldavian hill often represents a tragedy of migration—a family gone to work abroad, elderly left alone or disappeared. I aestheticised a painful social reality. I acknowledge this.
2. I treated the landscape as a backdrop for the character’s inner states, not as a place with its own history, its own people, and its own conflicts. The hills of Iași do not exist so that Vicențiu may have a suitable setting for his contemplation. They exist in themselves. My subjectivism was excessive.
3. I omitted the ugly. The Moldavian spring also has heavy mud, stray dogs, plastic bags hanging from bushes, and lines of cars on narrow roads. My photographic white is too clean. Beauty without ugliness is sentimentality, not art.
V. Lizards—Esopian Language Decoded
There are places in the narrative where I say one thing but mean another. I describe them here, because honesty demands it.
“In his mind, the spring album was more than a mere collection of images: it was a confession.”Lizard: Every serious artistic project is, in fact, a disguised autobiography. We never speak about spring or hills or bumblebees. We always speak about ourselves. Whoever does not acknowledge this lies to both their readers and themselves.
“Vicențiu, who had photographed people for many years before turning to nature.”Lizard: There is a weariness of people that makes some artists retreat towards nature, presenting this retreat as an aesthetic choice. It is also a flight. Not necessarily condemnable—flight can be a form of spiritual hygiene—but it should not be called anything other than what it is.
“That house had descended into its own ruin, and now it was tall.”Lizard: This is a statement about what we do with our failures. Institutions, relationships, projects that ruin are not necessarily final losses—they can become, if we let them be what they are without excessive lament, spaces in which something new grows. It is an idea of consolation, and I know I put it there as much for myself as for the reader.
“The bumblebee who does not know he is beautiful.”Lizard: The most beautiful people I have known did not know they were beautiful. Awareness of one’s own beauty alters it. This is also a gentle critique of the artist who is too self-aware, too concerned with their own artistic image—in other words, a self-critique.
VI. Rhetorical Tools Used—Methodological Transparency
1. Prolepsis (anticipation). The phrase “he knew this would be the central image of the album” anticipates a conclusion the narrative does not demonstrate. It is a procedure to lend credibility to the character—we make him know things intuitively in order to build his authority as an artist.
2. Theological analogy. The references to the Philokalia and Saint John Climacus are not decorative—they are an instrument to elevate the theme. Through association with an authoritative spiritual tradition, the photographic act acquires a dignity it could not claim on its own as a mere technical gesture.
3. Indirect address. The narrative is in the third person, but the moments when Vicențiu thought function as a disguised direct address—the reader receives the character’s thoughts as their own possible thoughts. It is a technique of empathetic identification.
4. Structural repetition. The stanza from Nichita Stănescu recurs three times in the text, each time in a different geographical and emotional context. This creates the illusion that the poem grows alongside the narrative, that it reveals its layers as it progresses.
5. Productive contradiction (coincidentia oppositorum).“I conquer and am conquered” is recirculated as the structuring principle of the entire narrative. The artist wins and loses simultaneously. This unresolved contradiction is presented not as a logical failure, but as a superior state of understanding.
VII. What You Can Do Tomorrow—Five Concrete Suggestions
1. Spend an hour without your phone on a hill or in a park in your city and look at a single living thing—a tree, a blade of grass, a cloud—for ten minutes without photographing it. Before you learn to photograph well, you must learn to see well. Looking without a camera is the fundamental exercise that all good photographers practise, and which most of us completely omit.
2. Find someone in your community who works with their hands—a craftsman, a gardener, a baker—and stand near them for half an hour without speaking, just observing. Not necessarily to photograph them, but to understand what authentic concentration looks like. The body of a person working with their hands is a school of presence.
3. Re-read a poem you already know, outdoors, aloud. Nichita Stănescu, or whoever else belongs to you. A poem spoken aloud in the open air sounds different from a poem read indoors. The words mix with the wind and become something else. This is not a metaphor—it is an experiment I urge you to actually try.
4. Write three lines about the most beautiful thing you have seen this week. Not to publish, not to show anyone. Just to fix in words what would otherwise be lost in the flow of days. Visual memory is fragile; words anchor it.
5. Call or write to someone who gave you an important idea and whom you have never explicitly thanked. As I have done with Florin Sfichi in this note. Ideas do not come from nowhere—they come from people, and people deserve to know that what they said has gone somewhere and grown in someone else.
VIII. What to Avoid—Actions That Narrow, Not Open
Do not photograph in haste. Haste is the principal enemy of good photography and of any form of authentic attention. If you have only ten minutes for a place, it is better not to photograph at all than to take thirty images in a rush. Haste produces quantity; patience produces a single good image.
Do not confuse equipment with vision. A more expensive camera will not give you the eye you lack. Vicențiu in this narrative photographs with a modest camera—a detail intentionally left vague—because the instrument matters infinitely less than what you know how to seek. Investing in equipment before investing in visual education is a form of procrastination disguised as action.
Do not publish immediately what you have photographed. Let the images rest for a few days before you select and show them. A fresh eye and a rested eye see differently. What seemed brilliant on the evening you shot it may appear mediocre three days later—and vice versa: images you ignored may, upon reflection, turn out to be the best of the day.
Do not aestheticise suffering without understanding it. An abandoned house may be beautiful in a photograph, but a responsible photographer knows there is a human story behind it. If you photograph poverty, ruin, or abandonment solely for their aesthetic effect, you perform an act of easy extraction—you take the beauty and leave the unchanged reality behind. I am not saying do not photograph these places; I am saying get to know them before you photograph them.
Do not compare yourself to others while you work. Comparison is useful in the study phase and harmful in the creative phase. When you are on the hill with your camera, no one else exists. There is you, the light, and what happens between you.
This author’s note, too, is fundamentally a photograph—an image of my limits and intentions, fixed in words before they change. Tomorrow I would write it differently. But tomorrow is another day, and another light.
Spring Song
Nichita Stănescu
Of course — spring has burst clean through my temples.
My shoulders run with shadow, dark and cool;
I'm held too well, too whole, I cannot sever
myself from all this round and breathing air.
This is the first time I have lost my living,
spring-bound, encircled, roped from every side,
until the fragrances come swinging at me —
I wake, I breathe them in, I stroke their light.
I die a second time when rays come slicing
across my face, pale blades hung low in boughs,
and time begins its turning through the birdsong
the moment that your step sounds through the trees.
Eyes closed, I feel your images come knocking
above my brows — a tinkling, restless chime.
I die in fits and starts and rise between them,
the soul wrung loose from death's envenomed grip.
O, spring is lifting flames of red and scarlet.
My soul lies stretched across their burning pile —
until the fragrances come swinging at me,
and I awake — and win — and am undone.